My first time to attempt this. The pink beam effect parts will look out of place with my new colour scheme so I'm changing them.
First used the last of my Tamiya Gray Primer on them.
First used the last of my Tamiya Gray Primer on them.
The white 1000 Mr. Surfacer I was used initially was too thin and the pink was showing through. Can't have that contaminating my colours. I did it with Grey Primer again after.After I saw the mold lines I decided to shave them off and make the blades smoother. I initially tried sanding the parts but... I didn't want to ruin some of the detail and wanted to keep it smooth.
It was fine. The primer did a decent enough job.
After this I covered them again in Mr. Base White 1000 (much better than the Mr. Surfacer in my opinion!) because I didn't want the grey throwing my colours off.
I tried making a mix of clear green and silver because I wanted a bit of shine/reflection but it didn't look right. Naturally I jammed up my airbrush in the process. >_>
Base White again then I sprayed them clear green later and it looks okay but... I'm not sure how it's going to look in the end and if it will match the way I want it too. I might do a light wet sanding job and then respray them to make them pop a bit more. The paint seems a bit uneven right now and too dark in some places. I was going for a kind a gradation effect starting light at where the beam connects to the emitter and darker near the middle or end of the blade.
Has anyone seem beam effect parts painted well? And I don't mean just paint clear red on top of pink. I'm talking about changing the colour. Like from pink to blue or something. I've never seen it done before. At least I've never seen it done in a way that I liked.
Something like what Keita did here is nice.
I tried making a mix of clear green and silver because I wanted a bit of shine/reflection but it didn't look right. Naturally I jammed up my airbrush in the process. >_>
Base White again then I sprayed them clear green later and it looks okay but... I'm not sure how it's going to look in the end and if it will match the way I want it too. I might do a light wet sanding job and then respray them to make them pop a bit more. The paint seems a bit uneven right now and too dark in some places. I was going for a kind a gradation effect starting light at where the beam connects to the emitter and darker near the middle or end of the blade.
Has anyone seem beam effect parts painted well? And I don't mean just paint clear red on top of pink. I'm talking about changing the colour. Like from pink to blue or something. I've never seen it done before. At least I've never seen it done in a way that I liked.
Something like what Keita did here is nice.
How do you think he did that? White, pink, gloss coat? Is his airbrush work really fine or is it just the lighting? I can't tell. Also I think it's much easier when you're doing this type of the stuff with colours in relatively the same spectrum. Blue to green for example must be easier than blue to orange. Red to pink probably isn't that tough and wouldn't screw things up too much. I don't get how it's possible to do a clear coloured part recolour but still keep the transparency/translucence.
My result came out close to this on the regular beam sabers but I couldn't replicate it for the leg and FATUM beam blades. Not sure what I did wrong... I think the key might be to use really thin paint as I painted the beam saber blades as my paint was running out...
My result came out close to this on the regular beam sabers but I couldn't replicate it for the leg and FATUM beam blades. Not sure what I did wrong... I think the key might be to use really thin paint as I painted the beam saber blades as my paint was running out...
This is one way to paint beam sabers any color you like.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.ghostofzeon.com/diy/beamsabres/sabers.html
It won't keep the translucency, but from what I can tell in the picture you posted, he's just painted them fluorescent pink. (They aren't actually see through anymore).
Hope this helps!
If you're going to blue for example, I suggest progressive sanding with 1000+ grit to 3000 >> gloss black base coat >> ultra fine sand/polishing compound >> metallic blue light/dark as required for gradation >> polishing compound >> clear blue light mist. I think that would look pretty killer.
ReplyDeleteThat job done by Keita, obviously the torso and legs are from (Strike) Freedom... =.= I love his beam saber!!!
ReplyDeletehttp://www.hlj.com/product/HQPFBS100
ReplyDeleteThey come in clear, so that will make that much a little easier for you!
skip - yeah i saw that same time ago but its a bit dark for me.
ReplyDeletetonzo - yeah that sounds pretty intense! id like to see the end result first before i give it a go though. im worried that it might turn out darker than i hope too... but i like the fine polishing idea... that might give me the effect im looking for...
lupes - NICE!!! they have clear green too! i'd still be screwed for the leg/back pack beams but still... maybe i can find something like that at my local hobby shop. thanks for that
The best idea I can think of is to maybe get a saw or something and trim the beam part down to fit the size of the backpack/leg beams, though the curve of the leg beams would be kinda tough to replicate.
ReplyDeletethey arent actually curved! they do look that way sometimes because of the angle and molding but the beams themselves are straight
ReplyDeletesounds like you're in business then my frined!
ReplyDelete